chevy 350 carb problems?
i have a 70′s model chevy 350 that i just put a summit 600cfm carb on. When we first put it on it was runnin WAYYYYYYY to rich and was burnin your eyes so we leaned it out. and we got the timing set right we think, not sure cause we dont know what kind of cam is in it. All we know that it is huge like in the .530 lift range? whats time timing supposed to be on that? next i dont know if i have upgraded lifters and springs and rocker arms. but im gonna pop my valve covers all and see. if i dont im probley getting all comp cam valvetrain? What do you guys think i should get? and lastly when we put it into drive it wont idle and weve had it up to 1200rpms and it still dies, it will like run for it maybe 3 seconds then shut off. i was thinking the torque converter. but it is a turbo 350 with a shift kit and stuff. Thanks for your help. o by the way the just a 350 with cam, summit intake, and 600 carb. no headers yet.
First of all, I am a cam designer and also a full competition race engine builder.
Comp cams is not a purpose built cam. They are cam marketers, not cam designers and engine builders. Nearly all of their stuff is not even ground in house and their shelf stuff for the old school small blocks are sub 30 year old designs, most of them.
The carb you bought is most likely the Holley 1850 carb which has a really lean idle circuit. ANY and ALL carb tuning is useless until you set timing. WIth a low compression engine and lots of cam timing(Which kills what little cylinder pressure a low compression engine has), you need 16-20 degrees of initial/vacuume advance at around 800 RPM. Then at full mech advance, you’ll like 34-36 degrees on most trypical and crude small blocks.
Ideally, You will have far better luck with a purpose built Quadrajet. I’m one of about four in the country who blueprints them internally. However, with your carb, you need to have a one inch thick phenolic carb spacer under it in a 4 hole configuration, not an open spacer.
What is happening to you is the idle circuit is so lean and you have such poor vacuume signal to the carb in addition to that fact, that you are having to open the throttle blades to a point which is uncovering the transition slots and hence the carb is fueling the engine at idle from the primary circuit and the power valve as well. So it is getting a huge load of fuel and is also hugely un-atomized. Fuel atomization/vaporization is crucial for power and everything else.
One fast cure is to drill the two front primary throttle blades with about a .050 hole in each of them, to begin with. This will allow you to put some idle by-pass air into the engine without having to open the throttle so much that the carb is no longer on the idle circuit. You may end up with .080-.090 by-pass air holes in those blades before it’s over. Next, you need to change the power valve and step down to around a 4.5 instead of a 6.5 that comes with it.
Buy a Mr. Gasket part number 3404. That’s your carb spacer with gaskets and longer studs. It’s a bargain for about $35 and a great enhancement. Will clean up the idle somewhat and will gain you some throttle response, bottom end, and mid range.
Those changes along with getting your spark advance set up as I have sugested should let you close the throttle enough to get you 800 RPM’s and still get engine response when you turn the idle mix screws.
Also, if fuel pressure is much beyond 5 to 5.5 psi, it will blow the needle off the seat and you will get fuel dribble out the venturi boosters and hence will NEVER get the carb to behave no matter what.
You should be installing a pair of factory Vortec heads(906 or preferrably, the 062 casting). This will also force yo to buy a different intake due to the bolt pattern and intake flange on the head.
Over the 70′s junk heads, it will also bolt on over a full point increase in compression which will pick up the engine vacuume signal to the carb, among other things.
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