Hot Tub Heater Element

Hot Tub Heater Element
Electric water heater keeps tripping the breaker?

We have an older electric water heater about 11 years old maybe. We recently had a leak in one of our bathroom tubs. It was leaking hot water. Then our hot water heater tripped the breaker. We fixed the leak. Now we think one of the elements is burnt out (or could it be a bad thermostat?) because it keeps tripping the breaker. Is it safe to use a water heater with a burnt out element? How much will it cost to fix, I ask because we are moving out in a few weeks and don’t want to spend money on it if we can avoid it. But the most important thing is keeping us safe and I don’t want anyone getting hurt.

An element has failed or the breaker has failed.

Thermostats don’t cause breakers to trip. The one remote failure could possibly be if the upper thermostat turns two elements on at once, never heard of it happening, but theoretically it could happen.

Breakers trip they fail or when something uses too much current, this can happen when an element fails.

This is how heaters work: A basic hot water tank has one element at the bottom, the thermostat turns the element on and off. If it fails to turn off and overheats water the overlimit cutout switch trips, and the tank will not heat water until the button is pressed and reset. It is located on the thermostat.

Fast recovery tanks have an additional element near the top, it has another thermostat. When that thermostat turns on the upper element it also blocks the lower element from coming on, so only one element operates at a time.

First check the size of the breaker in the panel, in the US it should be a 30 amp breaker (fed by #10 wire). If it is smaller than 30 amps you need to have somebody check the wire size to make sure the wire is #10, then replace the breaker with a 30 amp.

If it is a 30 amp like it should be, then to determine whether the breaker is failing or an element is short circuit failing a good tool to use is an ammeter (sometimes called an amp meter). Read the label on the element, see how many watts it uses, divide that number by 240, that remaining value is the amps. (i.e. 4500 watts divided by 240 volts = 18.75 Amps.)

Turn off the breaker, press the reset button on the thermostats, clamp the ammeter around one wire feeding the tank. Turn the breaker on, it should read close to the amp number calculated above, which should be between 15 and 22 amps. If it reads 0 then an element has failed, if you have a fast recovery it is the top element. If the amperage is less than the amp rating and the breaker trips then it is the breaker. If it is between 15 and 22, and the breaker doesn’t trip it is probably the bottom, but to test let the upper element heat a while, then turn the temp down on the upper element until it clicks and turns the bottom element on. Check the Amperage. If it is now high, it is the problem.

Of the other method would be to replace all the parts one by one, or all at once.

2 pole 30 Breaker $10
4500 watt elements $10 each
(Element removal wrench $10)
Thermostats $15

Or 4500 watt tank $205, which a buyer might ask to have changed anyway.

dry fired spa heater elements.mp4

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